Friday, September 24, 2004

On the Back of a Dragon

Once I had wings to lift me,
To make me part of the wind's song;
I could fly for ever and a day,
Watching the land pass below,
A part of the wind, and yet apart..."
-- "The Call of the Wind" by SeHT

After numerous stops and starts, I've finally been able to climb on top of Dragon's Back and man, the Dragon's view is brilliant.


Dragon's Back is a mountain range that runs around the southwestern part of HK Island, it is part of a hiking trek called Hong Kong Trail. It is steep but not hard to do, if you've got the grit for it. For more information about this trail, see here: http://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newparks/eng/hiking/hktrail/hktrail_08.htm


Dragon's Back is so called for a few reasons, and depending on who you ask you could get 10 different versions. But my favorites boil down to one that is visual, and one that is mystical.

This trail follows the undulating paths that line the top of the mountains, they swing up and down and trace the mountain ranges around southwestern Hong Kong, from afar they look like the line of a classical chinese dragon's body. So hiking the trail is like traipsing on the back of a dragon - up and down, up and down.


The mystical version appeals more to me - there are nine "dragons" in the Hong Kong area, which are rumoured to be the guardians of Hong Kong. In fact, "Kowloon" is the phonetic spelling for "Kow Lung", which means literally "nine dragons". This is one of them - and it is the guardian for this part of the island. Hong Kong geographically consists of largely volcanic rock (closet geologists, post a comment and I'll send you more information about the landscape of Hong Kong), a fact which makes for interesting public transportation networks, but you'll be hard pressed to find a more interesting view of its geology.



The "dragons" are essentially mountain ranges that plunge sharply to narrow coastal strips and azure seas, their majesty and grace embrace this island with intimidating cliffs and gently rolling slopes. Like the Hong Kong people, it is a study in contrast - harsh hikes, easy strolls, shaded woody shelters and exposed broiling sun-burnt treks. Like the Hong Kong people, it has a spine of volanic rock that doesn't give way and endures despite the drilling and the tunnelling that criss-crosses its insides. Walking on the Dragon's Back is to absorb the strong spirit from the spine that runs under Hong Kong itself.


And boy, did I feel it! The top of Dragon's Back allows you to survey the kingdom, and see a part of Hong Kong that most people wouldn't think exists. The Shek-O settlement has overtones of the mediterranean, emerald jewelled drops in the sapphire blue sea. The Tai Tam area shows luxurious condominiums with killer views, somehow seeming to underscore the elegance of the bay's natural beauty, rather than disrupt the vista.




For the adventurous, there are paragliding lessons on the top of the trail. We passed a new student trying out his air-legs for the first time - which started off with an accidental launch downhill... we all watched with bated breath as the instructor raced towards him, flailing frantically to grasp the parachute strings before the newbie took off for the never-never.



My hiking partners that day were cool people, including Ophelia and her little pooch Pico. Half were new in Hong Kong, while the other were veterans of the area - so we had quite an interesting perspective on things! The day ended up with a delicious lunch in Shek O, which also boasts a white sandy beach, and some awesome bouldering spots -- something for my next blog post.




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