Saturday, September 25, 2004

Helpless

I hate hospitals. It doesn't matter how good a reputation it has, how much good care it provides its patients, how human the atmosphere. Hospitals give me the willies, because everytime I step into one, I am reminded that so much of human life is outside human control, yet in the hospital I am confronted with the futile effort we make to prove otherwise.

She has been in the hospital since Sunday. This was not the first time she has been hospitalized, but it is the second admission in these few weeks. I went to see her, because it's been many months since I've had more than a few days to spend in this city. I go after work, arriving during the tail end of visitors' hours.

My leather pumps are clacking against the waxed clean vinyl floors, the sounds echoing off the walls. I take comfort in my brisk tread, a charade of control in a place where human lives are fighting against disease, old age and death.

I arrive at her bed, and she is awake. Her head turns towards me, because she still has her sense of curiousity behind the veil of dementia. Her eyes flicker, and I think she may have recognized me. I call her, she nods in acknowledgement, but I know deep down that the nod is automatic. The same nod she would accord a complete stranger, not her granddaughter, the same girl that spent almost every weekend of her childhood years playing with her grandmother.

Her caretaker is cajoling her to take a sip of the nutrition supplemental drink. The plastic cup is pushed against her gnarled fingers, she opens them and pushes the cup away. Her body may not know its hungry, but it still knows that it doesn't want to be told what to do. Her independence and stubborn streak don't hide behind illness - they are defiant and remind us that this is a woman with spunk. Yet defiance and stubborness don't make her hands grip, they don't make her spindly legs stronger, and they don't make the cancer cells disappear.

Those legs that used to chase after grandchildren, while she yelled after the kids to behave themselves. The same hands that would peel all fruits meticulously because of an irrational belief that the rot hides under the peel. The fingers that can no longer hold on to a cup, used to pound chili and dried shrimp in a heavy stone mortar. She used to call after me to eat up, now I am coaxing bits of moistened bread into her mouth.

Go on, I said. You're hungry, you must eat. Look, it's bread with jam, your favorite. Go on, it's good.

White bread with grape jelly, poor fare compared to the spread she used to be able to whip up. Her voice used to be sharp when chastising naughty kid fingers attempting to pick at food before it was ready. It used to coax us to sleep when we were too tired after play but too stubborn to nap. It would laugh in praise when we were able to show we could count the number of plastic toys she bought for us. It would be quiet with pride that she knew how to write her name and the numbers 1 to 10, despite not being able to write much else.

She moves her dry lips feebly, I don't hear anything but I know she knows I am there. I know she says hello. I touch her wrinkled and bony hands, the skin delicate like spiderwebs. There are marks from when the intravenous drip was inserted -- red marks that stood out harshly against her paleness.

I hold my lips steady. She never approved of crybabies. She preferred to use her energy fighting, scolding, than sobbing. She is one of the most stubborn, irrational, strongest, obstinate women I know. She may have surpassed the doctor's expectations, but the toughest test is yet to pass.

It's no use, she won't drink her supplement, nor eat her piece of bread. Cause and effect have disassociated themselves in her head - hunger no longer equals ingesting food. She's tired, she's had enough of these people hovering over her. Her arms slowly but surely fold themselves on her chest, a vague parody of her old obstinate stance. She closes her eyes, her lips imperceptibly tighten and her medicated-swollen cheeks seem slightly more clenched.

We get her point, she's ready to sleep. No more supplements, no more bread, no more babying and cajoling and noise and shadows. Leave her to her little world where the next thought is as confusing as the one before, and all she wants is to rest. I pat her hand - she ignores me.

Good night, Grandma. You're cold, here's a blanket. Let me turn down the fan. I'll see you tomorrow, okay?

I turn and leave. I bite my lip. I walk slowly and try to be quiet so my clicking high heels don't wake any of the other patients, all geriartric women, some calling out in their sleep, others curled into the fetal position they were born in. A chilling reminder that we can die as helpless as we were born. I look back, and she is asleep. I don't know what she remembers, or what she is seeing in her dreams. I know that I remember too much, and I can't let her go. I also know that I am helpless.

This is the reason I hate hospitals.



Grandma and my brother

Friday, September 24, 2004

On the Back of a Dragon

Once I had wings to lift me,
To make me part of the wind's song;
I could fly for ever and a day,
Watching the land pass below,
A part of the wind, and yet apart..."
-- "The Call of the Wind" by SeHT

After numerous stops and starts, I've finally been able to climb on top of Dragon's Back and man, the Dragon's view is brilliant.


Dragon's Back is a mountain range that runs around the southwestern part of HK Island, it is part of a hiking trek called Hong Kong Trail. It is steep but not hard to do, if you've got the grit for it. For more information about this trail, see here: http://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newparks/eng/hiking/hktrail/hktrail_08.htm


Dragon's Back is so called for a few reasons, and depending on who you ask you could get 10 different versions. But my favorites boil down to one that is visual, and one that is mystical.

This trail follows the undulating paths that line the top of the mountains, they swing up and down and trace the mountain ranges around southwestern Hong Kong, from afar they look like the line of a classical chinese dragon's body. So hiking the trail is like traipsing on the back of a dragon - up and down, up and down.


The mystical version appeals more to me - there are nine "dragons" in the Hong Kong area, which are rumoured to be the guardians of Hong Kong. In fact, "Kowloon" is the phonetic spelling for "Kow Lung", which means literally "nine dragons". This is one of them - and it is the guardian for this part of the island. Hong Kong geographically consists of largely volcanic rock (closet geologists, post a comment and I'll send you more information about the landscape of Hong Kong), a fact which makes for interesting public transportation networks, but you'll be hard pressed to find a more interesting view of its geology.



The "dragons" are essentially mountain ranges that plunge sharply to narrow coastal strips and azure seas, their majesty and grace embrace this island with intimidating cliffs and gently rolling slopes. Like the Hong Kong people, it is a study in contrast - harsh hikes, easy strolls, shaded woody shelters and exposed broiling sun-burnt treks. Like the Hong Kong people, it has a spine of volanic rock that doesn't give way and endures despite the drilling and the tunnelling that criss-crosses its insides. Walking on the Dragon's Back is to absorb the strong spirit from the spine that runs under Hong Kong itself.


And boy, did I feel it! The top of Dragon's Back allows you to survey the kingdom, and see a part of Hong Kong that most people wouldn't think exists. The Shek-O settlement has overtones of the mediterranean, emerald jewelled drops in the sapphire blue sea. The Tai Tam area shows luxurious condominiums with killer views, somehow seeming to underscore the elegance of the bay's natural beauty, rather than disrupt the vista.




For the adventurous, there are paragliding lessons on the top of the trail. We passed a new student trying out his air-legs for the first time - which started off with an accidental launch downhill... we all watched with bated breath as the instructor raced towards him, flailing frantically to grasp the parachute strings before the newbie took off for the never-never.



My hiking partners that day were cool people, including Ophelia and her little pooch Pico. Half were new in Hong Kong, while the other were veterans of the area - so we had quite an interesting perspective on things! The day ended up with a delicious lunch in Shek O, which also boasts a white sandy beach, and some awesome bouldering spots -- something for my next blog post.




Saturday, September 18, 2004

Links to my friends

Marla, the queen of zines and one of my oldest friends. She and her pink tiara have been a little quiet lately, but I'm sure it's only the calm before the storm. :) Do use her amazon.com links, they're awesome and she gets points too! http://www.marlatiara.com

Johann and his intrepid bicycle and a heck of a skill with the camera, with a wanderlust to match. Click ahead to read all about his (mis)adventures. http://www.nopuncturesplease.com
Or click here to catch his blog.... http://www.joeink.com/johann

"Society schools us obsessively in the art of achieving, but we remain woefully unschooled in the art of being." Click ahead to Heart Sanctuary to find out more. http://www.heartsanctuary.com

We got to know each other working a thankless job on a thankless shift, but Kerstin has become a solid and awesome friend. Learn more about what she and her multi-talented husband are up to: http://www.wiredplanetmusic.com


Friday, September 17, 2004

Harmonica

There is an overhead pedestrian walkway that straddles the north and south sides of Queens Road in Central Hong Kong. The walkway is very broad, the equivalent of 3 driving lanes. It is sheltered by a gazebo-like fibreglass top, and the design is chrome/metal/glass hi-tech.

The walkway is the main thoroughfare for people that exit the MTR station at Central, to work in one of the cubes in one of the many ant farms that comprise the financial district of Hong Kong. Everyday, it is an overwhelming tide of average Hong Kongers sweeping along with their own irresistible drive to get to work, finish work, then sweep back into the MTR stations and go home. This ebb and flow of the Hong Kong econo-crat is so basic and fundamental to life here, sometimes people don't notice what the tide has left behind to dry and rot on the streets of Hong Kong.

Like the old man that plays the harmonica. His home is dead center in the middle of this walkway. He is a decrepit old man, waxy skin burned to a dull brown, wrinkled and hanging off his bones like dirty laundry. He alternates between hunching over a little dish made from folding a few magazine pages together, and leaning up against a gleaming pillar that holds up the overhead walkway. His hair is white, stubbly, uneven and shows patches of insect bites on his scalp. His face is gaunt, with surprisingly well-defined browbones that hinted at smart features during his better days. I estimate he is in his early 70's, which pegs him as a man who has been through at least one world war and several revolutions (I assume he is Chinese).

Everyday, he blows on a little steel harmonica. Puff puff, wheeze wheeze. He doesn't make any tunes, there is no melody. Just staccato bursts of discordant noises, getting louder to drown out the leather pumps and wingtips soles clinking their way to and from work. He rocks to his exertions - forwards when he puffs out, backwards when he breathes. If he is sitting on the floor, his newspapers (forming his bed at night) crinkles with his rocking to provide an unusual accompaniment to this "music".

His eyes are pools of whirling sorrow. They are clouded by cataracts, but he still looks at you keenly, begging for a penny or two, while beads of sweat break out on his forehead as he puffs away at the harmonica. The cataracts may be invisible at certain angles, I'm not sure. The clouds in his eyes part occasionally, I see into the depths of those black orbs as he rocks forwards and I am ashamed by the naked beseeching poverty hiding in his eyes.

I avert my eyes from his face and turn to walk away - joining the millions of others that walk by him each day without noticing. Or maybe pretending not to notice - it's hard to ignore the tuneless screeches of his harmonica. The cuff of my pants sweep against his little paper begging tray, and the coins in it jingle.

The jingle wakes me up - reminding me that this is a life wasting away to nothing while around him others are trying very hard to not waste their time. I rummage in my pocket for some change and drop into his tray. I stride away quickly, face somber, head high, back straight. I am cringing inside from shame, that I am not doing anything more.

As I walk further and further away, I am surrounded by more and more people heading home after a day's work. The dull roar of conversation, clackety-clack of heels and the disembodied MTR public announcements are muted - over them I still hear the screeching sounds of a cheap harmonica.

P.S. As of this morning, Harmonica Man is no longer there. I think the police moved him someplace else.


Wednesday, September 15, 2004

Crepes, Chateaux and Mulberries

This is a new post of an old travelogue.

March 29, 2004 – April 3, 2004

It has been many months since I last saw Jessie, I couldn't say no to the request for me to visit and keep her company. After all since I worked out a business trip to London, Paris was just a hop, skip and a jump away. Little did I know I spent too much money on a plane ticket when I could have gone by train, spent too much time on the Metro when I could have gone by bus, spent too much imagination planning for metropolitan Paris when we ended up speeding through the Normandy/Brittany countryside.

My initial impressions of Paris were: dark night, sullen French teenagers rollerblading through the main train terminus. That's it for the 4 hours I saw of it when I got there. We took off for the countryside the next morning!

We went through three major areas – the Loire Valley, famous for wines and fertile ground and medieval and early renaissance architecture. Brittany, famous for some of the grandest chateux in the region and also Amboise, the home of Leonardo Da Vinci during his dying days. Normandy, of course, for WW2 and Omaha Beach, apples, and lesser known, Calvados, a very good port wine.

The Loire Valley gave me the impression of very traditional small-village lifestyle. The history and culture of the place peeks out at you – not very obvious or ostentatious, like Paris, but you can catch glimpses of an artist’s perception of the future, or a king’s dilemma between love and duty, all in perfect harmony with the stolid lifestyle of the French farmer’s day-to-day. My deepest impression was harmony. Everyone was in tune with everything. Even the gas station minimart looked right at home.

We passed Chateaux Chambord (King Francois the First’s Hunting “Lodge”) along the way. King Francois the First was a very big influence in the area, with most remarkable chateaux and cathedrals built in his honor. History has it he frequented this area for its lush wildlife and lush women – he was an avid hunter, and his lover Diana du Poitier lived here.




The Ladies at Chambord

There are two notable things we saw that I think deserve some space.. We first went to Leonardo DaVinci’s home, Close Luce. This was gifted to him by King Francois the First, and eventually was where da Vinci died. It is now a museum, displaying some of his original but lesser known work. It exhibited a lot about his life and work, as well as replicas of his inventions. It was a great place to visit – a very intelligent presentation of the man’s work.

View from Leonardo da Vinci's bedroom at Close Luce


Houses built into rock in Amboise, town by Close Luce

We also spent a lot of time in Chateux Chenonceux – a grand mansion built by King Francois the First for his lover, Diane Du Poitier. The Chateux is known for its beautiful gardens and ornate architecture.

Chateaux Chenonceaux was rumoured to had inspired Cinderalla's castle in Disneyworld

The history of this place intrigues me. King Francois’ wife was Catherine de Medici, of the famous Italian Medicis; she took power and ruled France after King Francois died. She booted Diane du Poitier from this chateux, and ruled France from her reading room overlooking the chateaux grounds. There are other rooms here that subsequent royal women stayed in, including Louise de Lorraine, who mourned her dead King for the rest of her life – her room was done entirely in black and silver and decorated for piety. She never left her room until it was time to die.

The gardens were designed for lovers to walk through – each corner to provide delight at the gifts of nature. It is indeed a Chateux built by women for women. When you look at the way the chateux is decorated, or as you walk through the rooms, you may faintly hear the edge of a royal gown sweeping on the stone floor. Perhaps, someone weeping behind closed doors for lost love. Or maybe even overhear an impassioned speech from the library about a kingdom's future.



From the Loire, we sped in our little minivan into Brittany, where we started to smell fish in the air. Between the lush valleys and the salty beaches, we saw green fields and fertile farms transition abruptly into endless vistas of sandbars. In Brittany, we experienced the futile hunt for the perfect crepe, and a spiritual visit to the Abbey at Mont St Michel.

Brittany is famous for its crepes and seafood, therefore we were on the hunt for the classic crepe, and some fresh fish. The journey was paved with rubbery floppy cold pre-made crepes, thick underdone pancake-like crepes, crispy wafer-like crepes... we can only find so many bad crepes in a one-day trip of Brittany right? Well we didn’t find the perfect crepe. Disappointment #1. We did have some grand meals at a pensione we stayed in -- we couldn't make heads or tails out of the menu but took our best guesses and pointed at dishes served at the next table if we liked the looks of them. Turned out we were luckier at guess-ordering than we were at crepe-hunting -- I had sweetbread for the second time in my life, and I have to say I liked it considerably more than the first.

The next morning we went on to Mont St Michel. The village is at the end of the world. It faces an awesome expanse of sandbars that lead out to the Island of St Michel, and when the tide comes in, everything is flooded in about 10 meters per minute. It is a fortified village that used to be an abbey -- monks would reflect and study here while kings and knights would congregate and plan their empires. A building that was constructed from stone, it cleaves into the rock structure of the St Michel cliffs like a barnacle gone awry – almost as if it was part of the cliffs’ natural structure. Due to the cliff’s gradient, various halls in the abbey were built to support other halls above it. The lowest hall contained pillars about 6 feet wide in diameter, many of them holding up the ultimate structure against the side of the rocky cliffs.




Pilgrims across the sandbars towards Isle St Michel

The fortified village contains steep, narrow and winding paths, you can see where the peasants would have constructed their houses to face the sea, and the walls to face the only narrow road that leads out to the peninsula. It is a location that is naturally defensible, yet so small, it is quite amazing it held off an English siege in the 16th century for over 30 years.


Crepe-less but quite enchanted with medieval history, we drove on to Normandy, and received a dose of modern history. Normany gave me the impression of an uneasy peace. In Arromanche, also known as "Sword Beach", the aura of WW2 is tangible, you can almost feel it on your skin as you walk along the beaches. Yet the villages are peaceful, quaint – they also sell many WW2 memorabilia and postcards of Mussolini getting beat up by a GI. It was also ironic being there, given the circumstances under which America participated in the world war then, and what it is doing now. The level of antipathy in this area against America is confounding considering the U.S. was known as a liberator during the 1940’s.

The village of Arromanche - "Sword Beach"


2004 is the 60th anniversary of the American forces’ landing on Omaha beach in Normandy on June 6 1944. Here in Arromanche there are still remains of mulberry bridges (floating connectors named after the engineer that invented them) and piers that the army used for its supply lines during the war. You can imagine how hard it was to gain ground on the expansive beach, how much killing space was available for the Germans to set up land minds and trip wires. Funny how beautiful it looked the day we were there – I don’t know if the GI’s had good weather when they landed, but if you half-close your eyes, the satellite dishes and new construction falls away and you may actually see the cliffs then as the soldiers did. It was an eerie empathy.



This was a fun short trip - I had loads of laughs with my friends playing screwed up Gin Rummy and trying to make up rules as we go along, making fun of each other about ghosts in the chateux, savoring French cuisine ranging from buttery croissants, creamy home-made yoghurt, to the most heavenly and complex sauces and full-bodied wine. What a luxurious trip! Sometimes the level of opulence experienced by my tastebuds was so overwhelming I almost wished for a Diet Coke and potato crisps, but I did manage to resist and had a glass of Burgundy red with a soufflé de potate instead.

The little journey ends with another nighttime glimpse of Paris, we had dinner in a little fish restaurant in the Left Bank and went for a leisurely stroll by the Hotel deVille. As thirty-year-olds we couldn't resist smiling and saying bounjour to various good-looking men that passed us, including one that had a lovely smile (I like to think it was a smile meant for me) but fortunately (or not?) spring-time in Paris did not result in anything more than mild flirtations.

Unfortunately Charles du Gaulle airport left a sour taste in my mouth - my backpack was picked while walking on the travelator to the terminal. Nothing was taken, probably because my backpack had so much crap in it, but I didn't appreciate the choking sense of panic and violation when I saw the zippers wide open. (As luck would have it, the terminal I was in was the same one that collapsed a few months later)

Heading south next time! Marseilles and Nice, here I come.

Yoko, Chris, me, Rob, Weiling, Jess, Ian

For more pictures from Normandy and Brittany, please go http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/patsianlow/album?.dir=2344&.src=ph

Tuesday, September 07, 2004

September is a good time to start

Okay I'm a bit late to the game, but I've joined the blogging generation. It's September 6 and this is my first ever post, on my first ever blog... wish me good journey.

For those that have received emails of scribblings from me before, you'll probably continue to get them - I can't just broadcast my life without some kind of personal touch - but if your boss or email monitor man/woman nastily says my attachments have blown your mailbox limit, well you now have an alternative.

It's still bloody hot in Hong Kong. Typhoon brewing in Taiwan = Baking Hong Kong. I am quite serious when I use the word "bake" - the temperature is similar to what it feels like in front of a pizzeria oven. This past Sunday, I was foolhardy enough to attempt to tramp in the hills of Sai Kung, in the New Territories. Given that I underestimated how long it will take to get there, and I had a 12.30 pm yum-cha appointment 30 min away, the couple of hours spent in Sai Kung was not much of a workout. However it was a good introduction to some other options I'll have in the area, so I'm more psyched about the next visit than I am about this last one. General information about Sai Kung, please go here: http://parks.afcd.gov.hk/newparks/eng/country/cps/cp_sk.htm

I met up with Katrina, a new friend I made in Hong Kong. Katrina is Australian, she teaches English in a public school in the area. We braved the heat, boldy trekked up steep paths past people's houses and overgrown tropical foliage. We passed pickling urns, an old graveyard, classic mountain villas, banana trees, sweet potato shoots, and some awesome views of the bay on one side, with the mountains on the other.

View of Sai Kung East Bay

Beyond these hills lie the great land of China - nontheless from our limited vantage point it is still surprising how big Hong Kong really is, and how much more there is to the region than just tall buildings and flashy night life.
Undulating Hills

There were a few harrowing moments when evil-looking dogs with no leashes or muzzles dart out from a bend ahead and glare at us, flanks quivering, drooling, growling, haunches at the ready. Steady, I thought to myself. Walk in a steady pace but do not rush nor hesitate... A couple of these and I was starting to question the intelligence of doing this little trek without a walking stick or dog treats.

Luckily there were only two scary dogs that got in our way, which were in sharp contrast to the finely coiffed and pampered pet dogs that lots of folks brought out to the Sai Kung central promenade. For some reason these dogs almost invariably travelled in pairs, usually with matching leashes and water bowls. Some were beautifully groomed proud pedigree dogs, others were yapping little annoying creatures tucked away in a handbag that I wanted to drop-kick (just kidding, animal-lovers, just kidding..) Some of these pets were on parade, just as their owners were in designer sunglasses and gucci bikinis. Others were average dogs, talking a walk with their average owners, flip flops and baseball caps and all.

Basically all were having a good time. Katrina and I watched the boating fishmongers sell their wares by dock-side, and had some iced teas before admitting defeat to the heat and called it a day.

I'll be publishing some of my older scribblings over the next few months, and learning how to post pictures here using Hello/Bloggerbot (I feel positively all-thumbs compared to you old hands at this) ... so unfortunately pics are still sitting on Yahoo in the meantime. I'm still new at this stuff so bear with me.

Cheers.


Dockside Fish Market


Closer look at her fish


Boats to Outer Islands from Sai Kung

Other pictures from Sai Kung - First Visit: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/patsianlow/album?.dir=fde4&.src=ph