An Afternoon at Wanchai

I'm at the wanchai pools. Little kids with matching swimcaps in two rows doing the backstroke, little orange heads lined up on electric blue water, strokes well-timed in syncopation with the encouraging shouts of their coach, splish splash like a rhythm in beat with the pounding of their hearts, to end at the other side with a resounding cheer that lifts the spirits of all watching.

Am seriously pissed off that camera batteries are DEAD. These were the only two pictures I got that day before Energizer bunny stopped drumming.

The Pool



An Alleyway Barber

More thoughts from an Insomniac

A fascinating and horrifying account (linked from popagandhi), with some thought-provoking observations, and many leading questions. It is also a strange juxtaposition to my previous posts about my visit to a little part of Cambodia (Siem Reap). I now feel little chills run down by back when I remember the ubiqitous signs of the Cambodia People's Party.

Seemingly unrelated, I came across this letter written by a student from Columbine, Ohio:

The paradox of our time in history is that we have taller buildings, but shorter tempers;
wider freeways, but narrower viewpoints;
we spend more, but have less;
we buy more, but enjoy it less.

We have bigger houses and smaller families;
more conveniences, but less time;
we have more degrees, but less sense;
more knowledge, but less judgment;
more experts, but more problems;
more medication, but less wellness.

We have multiplied our possessions, but reduced our values.
We talk too much, love too seldom, and hate too often.
We’ve learned how to make a living, but not a life;
we’ve added years to life, not life to years.

We’ve been all the way to the moon and back, but have trouble crossing the street to meet the new neighbor.

We’ve conquered outer space, but not inner space;
we’ve cleaned up the air, but polluted the soul;
we’ve split the atom, but not our prejudice.

We have higher incomes, but lower morals;
we’ve become long on quantity, but short on quality.

These are the times of tall men, and short character;
steep profits, and shallow relationships.

These are the times of world peace, but domestic warfare;
more leisure, but less fun;
more kinds of food, but less nutrition.

These are the days of two incomes; but more divorce;
of fancier houses, but broken homes.

It is a time when there is much in the show window and nothing in the stockroom;
a time when technology can bring this letter to you, and a time when you can choose either to make a difference .. or just hit delete.

So much death, destruction, heartache, anger, filth, paranoia, arrogance, bombast, selfishness, egoism in our lives.

Yet the sensibility and courage evident in these two links, give me some hope.

Life goes on, painfully but surely.

5 years ago today, April 22, 2000, little Elian Gonzalez was seized by US Federal Agents and wrapped in a blanket, delivered to his father, and subsequently returned to Cuba, far from the deep waters where his mother drowned.

I remember watching this on the news when I was in New York. At the time, I was bitter about the long and tortuous process of my Green Card application. Reading about the legal and political wrangle on the fate of this kid, my reaction at the time was of deepest skepticism and barely concealed cynicism. Here is a 5-year-old child getting all the attention in the world, with the pro-asylum camp getting louder day after day, claiming to represent the intentions of a now-deceased woman, more and more convinced that her intention was to let her son have a better life in the Free World. Rhetoric upon rhetoric pointed out the "right" thing to do, while editorials and commentaries debated the prerogatives of the child's father against the deep schism between American and Cuban politics.

The U.S. courts ruled eventually that Elian should return to the custody of his father in Cuba. Then came the storming of Elian's relatives' house in Florida, and the now infamous clip of a US Federal Agent pointing a wicked looking machine gun at a male relative carrying a traumatized and crying Elian.

Photo courtesy of AP

Perhaps 5 years too late, I wonder now how he is doing. I was admittedly ignorant about what poor Elian had to go through on the waters before he was rescued by a fisherman all those years ago. I wonder if he has been able to come to terms with the terrifying flight from Cuba, squeezing on an overcrowded boat tossing around in the harsh waves, U.S. Coast Guards' inaudible warnings to turn back, frantic and desperate adults grasping at their last chance for a better life, a capsized boat and clutching with cold fingers at the inner tube of a tire to not drown in the deep blue sea, mind numb and soul dead from telling yourself to not let go, never let go.

Has he forgiven the insane American media and political pundits, who tossed his name around like a trophy to garner electoral votes and churn the propoganda machine?

Does he remember his Miami relatives, who showered him with gifts and attention and tried to fast-forward what they thought should have been his new life into the space of a few days?

Will he remember the crash course in the American Dream that they put him through while he was surrounded by reporters, supporters, detractors, police, agents, photographers, the incredible cacophony of Breaking News in America?

Does he remember his mother? Is he happy with his father?

Elian Gonzalez' life goes on. Sometimes painfully, but surely. Because politics are a function of the times, and when time passes, politics finds other battles to fight. But the fickleness of popular opinion and political fairweatherness are nothing compared to the bonds of a family, and I hope Elian is well.

Lo que no mata, fuerta.
Buena suerte, Elian.

Really Serious News

Well if you REALLY want to fight over textbooks.... The Great Wall is still Great. So says the BBC.

And I think this gives a brand new definition to the term "Roadkill"...not likely that cars will be able to run over this.

And yes, in case you haven't figured it out by now, I get my news from the BBC. Cos they have a sense of humor with STYLE, not flash, like CNN.

Mothers and Babies

Today started off on a wrong note - I left the house without coffee. Then was caught in traffic, which made me late for a meeting, which then continued at a frenetic pace with a lot of "thinking" type things to do. By the time 4 pm rolled around, a little mind-break was in order...

So I went down to the lobby patio where I work, and watched well-to-do "tai tai"s (slang word for "ladies") with their kids and their nannies enjoy the breezy weather today. As I sat there watching child and nanny and mother, I was reminded of what happened on a recent flight from Singapore to Hong Kong.

I was seated in the middle section, two empty seats between me and a man. One woman sat behind him, with one son; another woman sat on the other block of seats by the window, with his daughter. Both kids were toddlers. When I sat down, it was with a sinking heart because I really was not looking forward to screaming kids pounding on their tray tables which were attached to my seat back.

I was not wrong - between the two kids, there were stomach upset, tantrums, alarm over the sounds from the airplane, noisy fascination at other passengers' seat belts, etc. There was plenty of tumbling down the aisles, a lot of passengers gritting their teeth, and flight attendants going "oh, so cuuuuuuuute!".

Eventually the tantrums boiled over and one toddler started crying, and the other caught on to add to the cacophony. The woman sitting behind was quite zen and kept her head buried in her reading material, occasionally glancing over at the squirming and sobbing boy who was trying to get into the front into his daddy's embrace. The other woman was very hassled and kept trying rub the back of the screaming girl who was also trying to get into daddy's embrace.

I was seated 2 seats away from Daddy. I kept my eyes closed, headset glued to my ears and kept repeating to myself, "woooooo--saaaah". Even when Hassled Woman had to take the girl to the restroom for a diaper change, by walking OVER me to get to the restroom on THIS side of the airplane. Then she tried to calm the kid down, who refused to sit by her side and wanted to go to Daddy, who was already trying to comfort the boy. Between the crying and whining and Daddy scolding, the seat belt sign came on, and we were on the descent into Chek Lap Kok airport.

Flight attendants ran up to the little family in a panic, "Please sir, your children must be seated while we are approaching." to which the girl responded with a resounding wail and buried her head in her dad's lap, while the boy threw up on the headrest next to mine, causing the Hassled Woman to go into a mild hysteria. The Flight Attendant stood there wringing her hands. Daddy turned around and barked at the woman sitting behind, still with her head in the reading material. "Can you please take him and calm him down!"

But the Flight Attendant wouldn't let her get up from her seat. Another argument ensued over my head, which I desperately tried to ignore. Somewhere between all of this, we touched down and landed in Hong Kong.

When the plane came to a complete stop, I leapt out of my seat desperate to get away from this family. But my luck being what it is, when I got out of the plane, this little family was already off the jetway. Perhaps now that we're not all cramped in a flying tin can, I was more disposed towards being charitable to the kids and I would actually HEAR what they were trying to babble.

"Mommy, mommy" they called to the Zen Woman who had her head buried in a magazine the entire 3 hours and 45 minutes of flying-with-kids-hell. They run headlong towards her, while she wheels her duty free shopping in a little trolley away from them, her eyes fixed on the Estee Lauder Travel Special 10 gates down the corridor.

Hassled Woman runs after the kids, calling after them in a now-obvious Filipino accent, and catches them one in each arm, before they crash into Mommy's duty free shopping trolley. She lifts them up while a sweaty lock of hair falls into her eyes, and as I walked past her, the universal smell of childcare reached my nose.

That mix of baby powder, sour milk, sweat, care and love suddenly made my heart ache. I felt incredible sadness for these 2 kids who were raised by their nanny rather than their mother. I imagined that I was barely 3 feet tall and I am running after that well-dressed beautiful woman whom I thought was my closest and dearest adult but I can't catch up. And as she becomes smaller and smaller in my sights, I feel a strong, dark and comfortable arm snake around my belly and I am picked up and hugged in another's embrace whom I know so well. Another's voice which I hear first thing in the morning and last thing at night, telling me stop running into things without looking.

As an adult, I remember that I've just had at least 6 friends have babies in the past 4-5 months. I hope they realize the blessings they have been given, and I wish with all my heart that they would, even at their worst moments, be Hassled Woman and never Zen Woman.

The Gender Gap

It isn't just about the difference in compensation for men and women for the same job. Or about discriminatory hiring practices. Or about the glass ceiling.

This is more basic than that - about girls that don't have as much of a chance at education as boys. And the reasons for this anomaly are deeply rooted in poverty, survival, practicality, and economics.

UNICEF released a statement that "115 million children worldwide are missing out on an education - and most of them are girls." Full BBC article here.

excerpt:
Unicef executive director Carol Bellamy said: "Education is about more than just learning. In many countries it's a life-saver, especially where girls are concerned. A girl out of school is more likely to fall prey to HIV/Aids and less able to raise a healthy family."

Afghanistan and Pakistan have the widest gender gaps. For Pakistan to have the same number of girls as boys in school by 2015, it would have to increase girls' school attendance by more than 3% each year. In eastern and central Europe, there is cause for concern too. The introduction of fees for tuition, schoolbooks and uniforms has led to rising drop-out rates - and girls drop out sooner than boys.

I'm not sure about Ms Bellamy's comment regarding schooling as the definitive way to prevent the spread of HIV/AIDS. There are many paths to this problem, including educating the adults, not just the young. A society's view towards sexually-transmitted diseases is not easily altered just by teaching its young in the schoolhouse about unsafe sex, but it could start a shift towards a generation that is more aware of the perils around it, maybe even develop a mindset that is more open to other methods of cure and control. Ms Bellamy's method could take generations to get to its results, and the epidemic may not give her enough time.

But she is right about the root of the problem - girls are not receiving as much education as boys. I grew up in a society where schooling is not compulsory (as recently proven by an interesting dinner chat with a schoolteacher), but commonly available and more often than not, taken for granted. There is only one generation between those that were lucky to have finished secondary education, and those that keep adding alphabets after their last name. Broadly available government-subsidized education has produced batch after batch of Singaporean students that slowly but surely look beyond its borders to put their highly-educated minds to good use.

That being said, there are hints that Singaporeans are still living in a gendered world. Here is some food for thought:

Here in Singapore, when Community and State take precedence over Self, female babies must grow up with the burden of being wife, mother and caregiver. Women rebels - those who opt not to become mother or caregiver - are made to feel guilty in spite of their achievements in other sectors.. male babies are not exempt either. ... For as long as Amir is the strong one and Amira is the pretty one, both will be locked in roles that restrict their freedom to make choices for themselves, their families and society.
- Dr. Suzaina Kadir, Asst Prof of Political Science, National University of Singapore, contributing to "Her Story".

I've made it a point in my life to bust as much of the stereotypical roles as I can, but I think any career woman knows there are times when hiding behind these caricatures can sometimes be a bit of a respite from the constant fight to prove your own worth. Reading these two pieces today has got my mojo going and the battle continues.

On to lighter topics: IZ Reloaded continues to have the coolest links to Star Wars stuff, most recently, a Lego rendition of Anakin Skywalker's story...

Correction to Vroom Vroom

My sister, who was present (actually IN the car) when I had that accident in Tasmania, has kindly emailed the following to me:

"Hey, just a correction to your Tassie accident...we were heading up to Cradle Mountain in Launceston....aiyoh, Hobart is in the south babe. And the car door was crushed on my side I had to crawl out your end. Yes, Yes, thank me for making you feel "better" . Just wanted to set the record right on your blog, that's all. And remember how fast the police arrived to direct traffic and how fast the tow truck came? The town was so small...word got round so fast!"

Thanks, sis :) Here is the original, incorrect post.

Vroom Vroom

So my uncle mentions he is taking "Driving Refresher Lessons". In Hong Kong. He doesn't live close to his workplace, and at this stage in his career, it's getting a little awkward shepherding his clients into taxis. So he bit the bullet and bought a car, rather large one that can sit 7 (ok ok so it's more like a minivan) but it's really plush on the inside, and he's got a driver and everything. But Mr. Driver only works 5-half days a week, so Uncle's on his own on Sundays. To hear him describe his driving experience today makes me remember my spotty driving record.

I got my license in the US 13 years ago - and I'm a lousy driver. I think even my picture looks like one of a lousy driver - that bug-eyed-oh-shit-i'm-about-to-get-into-a-car look. I've had 1 incident and 2 accidents, funnily all in rental cars. The most serious was a bad swerve that rammed the car into the side of a bridge outside Hobart, Tasmania, on our way to Wineglass Bay. I think my brother got a sore neck, but that was about it, phew. I blame that one on Tasmanians driving on the other side of the road. So I say, self-righteously.

The "incident" was a little fender tap when the light turned green and the car in front of me didn't move. Somewhere in Southern California..the other side tried to stiff me with a mechanic quote for $700 for gluing the little Honda sign back on the decorative fender, when I was willing to settle it for $200 cash on the spot. So I told them to f%#@ off and let the insurance take care of it.

The last was a drunk driver who banged into us in Ottawa, Canada. Clipped the front left of the car, messed up the wheel. The most dramatic bit was trying to keep warm in minus-20 deg Farenheit in Ottawa while waiting for the cops to get there, and then watching the other guy getting escorted away in plastic cuffs cos he failed his breathalyzer test.

I've driven many times since, mostly as a designated driver, and always in someone else's car. But I wish my Uncle the best of luck, because HK traffic... man, you'd only get me to drive it at gunpoint.

So here are some tracks for you folks while you're driving, gets your shoulders pumping and head bobbing... see Wyjunkie's post.

50 Years on a Boring Saturday Evening

This past Friday, April 15, McDonald's turns 50 years old. I remember when going to the Golden Arches was the epitome of teenage coolness, where pocket money was painstakingly saved to buy a small order of fries. I never learned to like the taste of biscuits, and until today am still a McMuffin person. I still have yet to find someone that does a hashbrown quite the same way. Whether it's a cliche of American consumerism (i.e. mcjob), or the grounds for offbeat lawsuits (the longest libel suit in English court history, the infamous hot coffee case, etc.) it's still hard to imagine that stupid clown with radioactive red curls and yellow dungarees is now 50 years old...

Howard Furness and his brother Kenneth are finally reunited after having lost contact for over 50 years. Generally I'm not one for big family to-dos, but even on my own self-inflicted little island, I still can't imagine being without relative contact for over 50 years. Sniff - makes me want to ring my family.

Here's something to make going back to work on Monday a little easier, all they need now is Corporate Bingo. I plucked this from IZ Reloaded, a pretty cool blog.

I am thick-skinned enough to want to be a better photographer, so I've been browsing the 2nd Annual Smithsonian Photography contest. Some of these were enough to make my heart stop. Such talent. If only my brain could function as a digital camera for what my eyes can see, with every twist of my left ear, my eyes blink and the image is seared forever in my memory. Then again, being thick-skinned...I think I could do better than that picture of Angkor Wat that made it as a finalist in the Travel section. Hmmmm...idea....

And, for the Star Wars fans who hang out with Chocolate fans, check this.

Sigh the weekend is half over.

The Depression Special

Today has been an indoors kind of day. There was the kind of rain that doesn't pour down, but clings on. Plus I could actually open my 18th floor window and stick my hand out into mist. So it was time to resort to my "One-Day-I-Will-Relax-At-Home" plan.

The PLAN consists of the following: 1. A 3-DVD sequence, preferably with some thematic pattern; 2. Hot drink (today's beverage of choice is Moccono instant coffee, cos I'm a lazy bum); 3. Munchies (I've got roasted peanuts-still-in-shell).

My DVD sequence is what some would term the "La Especialidad de Depresion", or "The Drepression Special" in Spanish. Why? Cos the DVD's are: The Sea Inside (Mar Aldentro), Bad Education (La Mala Educacion), and Maria Full Of Grace (Maria, llena eres de gracia). How do you say in Spanish, let's make a movie about heroin-pellet-swallowing transvestites who support euthenasia in an effort to uncover the truth about their feelings of the Catholic clergy?

No, I didn't finish the sequence. In all honesty, it was just too damn depressing. After one DVD I needed to do something else to "cleanse my palate".

Luck or Providence?

At the risk of angering any devout Catholics that visit my blog, or any sensitive Irish folk... this is an interesting look at the public sentiment.

The BBC reports that Paddy Powers Bookmakers in Ireland have several books running on the odds on who the new Pope will be.

Does placing a bet on your favorite cardinal mean one believes that Cardinal So-and-So is a true representative for the Roman Catholic faith and indeed the spiritual leader of the Catholic world? Or does it mean one subscribes to the less biased but sometimes freakishly applicable theory of gaming and numbers?

I thought the table of odds was very funny - will the Cardinals with less favorable odds feel a bit out of sorts? There's even a book on the duration of the conclave, and the name of the new Pope. Paddy calls these "novelty" or "non-sporting" bets.

I also read the comment about "non-campaigning" with a grain of salt. I am not an expert on the Catholic church, far from it actually. However, cynicism and the incredible power/wealth that accompanies the position of the Pope (directly or not) compel me to imagine that the process is far from the purity that was originally envisioned. Those who want to read about this further, albeit fictionalized and probably somewhat biased, may want to try this book by David Osborn.

Taking our minds away from the religio-political world for a second, seeing as how I was in Cambodia less than 3 weeks ago, this article made me very sad.

Where is Eddie Gibson? What are the odds that he will be found? Maybe some prayer time can be taken away from the papal election, to be given to Eddie's heartbroken parents.

Cookie vs. Fruit

Times they are a-changing. As I sit here at 7 am munching on dry toast and sipping black coffee, I was browsing the news to distract my inner urge to go for a bacon cheese sausage egg sandwich. And as if to remind me of my creeping waistline (creeping upward, not down... bloody not down), guilt trips over not going for my used-to-be-regular-3-km-run-at-sunrise flashed through my brain. My eyes were irresistibly drawn to a new article on BBC.co.uk:

Cookie Monster curbs cookie habit

Excerpt:

Each episode of the show's new series will begin with a "health tip" about healthy foods and physical activity.

A Sesame Street representative said the popular character would be "broadening his eating habits" in future.

"We are not putting him on a diet, and we would never take the position of no sugar," said Dr Rosemarie T Truglio, the show's vice president of research and education. "We're teaching him moderation."

New characters such as talking aubergines and carrots will be introduced, while guests stars such as soul singer Alicia Keys will talk about the importance of a healthy lifestyle.

I suppose it's a saving grace that Cookie will "never take the position of no sugar". Because it's already a slight shock to see Cookie being friends with aubergines and carrots (aubergines are eggplants, for my American friends). The colors don't even match, for crying out loud.. dark blue, deep purple and orangey red..

Oh Cookie Monster. Maybe by eating more vegetables and fruits you'll perservere to a ripe old age, and continue to bring many more laughs to healthy, un-obese and aubergine-munching kids in future. I'll miss your crumb-flying-growling-frenetic-eyeball-rolling-crazy cookie binges though.

What To Do When You're Sick At Home

So I came back from Beijing with a wicked stomach virus. The type that makes your mouth crave juice, but your throat can't swallow it and your stomach rebels against it. After sleeping for 12 hours straight I'm feeling a little better, but I'm a wimp and I don't dare to face the outside world. So it's a day of pj's, web surfing and watching DVDs. Don't underestimate the recuperative powers of a day of vegging out.

During the veg process, came across several interesting links across the broadest spectrum possible of emotional and intelligence quotients...

Xiaxue's entry about the Singapore Fashion Festival NOTE AS OF APRIL 14: I have removed the hyperlink as this post has not been permalinked and it's no longer on her home page.

I'm not a big fan of her blog, but every now and then I go on to see if she's got another new rant against people that go off about how good she looks. So this time I stumble across her entry on the Singapore Fashion Festival, and more importantly (for you boys) the TRIUMPH FASHION SHOW (ahem - boys, triumph makes women's underwear). Knock yourselves out, boys :)

Mr. Brown's Very Moving Entry
I have my fingers and toes crossed and I am so heartened to see such improvement. The love will perservere, I am sure of it.

Celly's Job Hunting Tips
All you newbies who are just starting out in the job market and haven't made it past the "send-cv-to-hr-department" stage, check out this post. Although I have an inherent rebellion against people judging others by appearances, and requiring a picture to be submitted with your cv can even be illegal in some parts of the world.

Let's Watch DVD-Subtitles Tonight
On occasion, reading the movie subtitles can be more fun than watching the movies itself. Really makes you wonder, though, whether or not the ones that subtitle Foreign Movies into English words, are in fact doing it correctly?

Quote of the week:
Good-looking men are not good in bed, because they never had to be.
- Carrie Bradshaw (played by Sarah Jessica Parker), Sex and the City

Siem Reap Pictures 6: The Bugs

Here's the answer to the multi-million dollar question: What In The World Possessed Me To Eat Bugs In Cambodia??!!

well, check out these suckers. Who could say no?

Kdaam-Tuk

That was an eventful trip to Siem Reap. Following highlights are some pictures from little sojourn into the land of bugs and stone relics:
Siem Reap 5: Temple Visitors
Siem Reap 4: Defiant Against Time
Siem Reap 3: Les Enfants du Paradis
Siem Reap 2: Faith
Siem Reap 1: Tonle Sap

For a complete picture album, you can go to any of the links below:

Temple Visitors I and II
Defiant Against Time
Arches and Columns and Spires and Steps
Food and Khmai Life
Les Enfants du Paradis
Coral and Me

And here are some more thoughts on my visit:
Cambodia IV: Lok Lak, Sony Ericssons and Fried Cockroaches
Cambodia Dispatch III: Phalli's Day From Hell
Cambodia Dispatch II: Trokalok
Cambodia Dispatch I: Chong Kneas

Siem Reap Pictures 5: Temple Visitors

In addition to 2 very cute Singaporean girls (ahem - wink wink), there were busloads of Japanese, Korean and Chinese tourists visiting the temples. They were well prepared for the weather, in name-brand golf-shorts and visor shades, protective gloves and bottles of mineral water around their necks. Complete with the tour guides, of course. I have to give the Japanese groups due credit though - most of them were of retirement age, and were out having a good time in their golden years. They gave it their best shot clambering up the steep steps of the Angkor spires, and in most cases, made it down with no harm done. Ganbatte!!


The Technicolor Scramble


Debriefing Session Before Scramble


Korean Tourists Watching Sunet over Tonle Sap


American Girl Taking a Break from Heat


Coral at Angkor

Next: Siem Reap Pictures 6: The Bugs

Siem Reap Pictures 4: Defiant Against Time

Much has been written of the ruins that we visited: Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, the Bayon, Ta Promh, Banteay Kdei, etc. I won't waste space introducing them to everyone - you can do a google on your own. I will say this as my own experience of these places:

Angkor Wat: Sunrise is overrun with sleepy tourists clutching tripods and mugs of coffee. If you're not that keen to catch the obligatory tourist shot of the sun rising behind the spires, you're better off spending the morning sitting on the ledge of the top spires.

Ta Promh: My favorite by far. A sense of peace, sanctuary, quiet contemplation. Hidden in the shadows of the trees, unlike Angkor Wat which is exposed to the elements. Met the Lonely Planet Old Man! He is 83 years old.


The Many Faces of Bayon


Angkor Wat Spires at Sunset


Sanskrit Text on Angkor Column


Ta Promh Archway Caving In


Terrace of Elephants


Column within Column


Tree Roots Invade



Lonely Planet Old Man

Next: Siem Reap Pictures 5: Temple Visitors

Siem Reap Pictures 3: Les Enfants du Paradis

I named this bog post Children of Paradise because where these kids live is a strange dichotomy of paradise and hell. (And in French! To celebrate some of Cambodia's past)

Paradise when they're enjoying their screaming games among the grass, on the water, or around the temple columns. Hell, when they are scrambling for US dollars from tourists. The mercurial shift from childish delight to sad monotone whines of begging despair.

Lady, you buy my postcards for one dollar?

No food, no mommy, no daddy...

I want 100 rel! Give me 100 rel!

Lady, you want guide around Angkor? I know all about Angkor. I be good guide.

There was one remarkable 12 year old boy that we were chatting with, while sitting on the ledge off the side of the tallest spire in Angkor Wat. His name is Mat, and he sells souvenirs by Phnom Bakheng. He has such intelligence, and streetsmarts to match. The obligatory pitch, of course, to buy some of his stuff - but he was sweet enough to give us a bracelet off his own wrist. "For good luck". And when he saw us balking at the price for a cheap guide book, told us in an undertone (after stealing a quick look behind at his bosses to make sure they weren't paying attention) that we would get better prices in the town bazaar. Mat is a smiling, cheerful, gutsy, charming, adventurous boy and also very clearly, a survivor. I hope good things come his way, he deserves nothing less.


Start Driving at a Young Age


Tour Guide at Phimenakas


Three-Way Water Fight (Chong Kneas)


Winner of Water Fight sees better opportunity


Ring Around the Column


Getting Ready for Prayer


Next: Siem Reap Pictures 4: Defiant Against Time

Siem Reap Pictures 2: Faith

These iconic ruins, Hindu or Buddhist, are so much a part of people's lives here. Among the busloads of tourists that are beginning to make a farce out of some parts of this beautiful destination, locals still make the daily pilgrimage to certain statues in one corner of the huge temple complexes. They offer flowers, money, rice. They ask for blessings, seek to know their fortunes, or sometimes, just close their eyes with head to the ground in devoted prayer. I didn't want to take any pictures of people in prayer, it seemed a terribly rude and intrusive thing to do. The shots below are of various people that either live, or work, or have visited these temples as a symbol of their faith - in either spiritual redemption, or simply, in being able to make a living.


Aged Female Acolyte (Banyon)


Security Guard at Phimenakas


Visiting Monks (Angkor)


Dash of Vermillion on Grey (Angkor)


A Sense of Humour (Angkor)


Aged Male Devotee (Angkor)

Next: Siem Reap Pictures 3: Les Enfants du Paradis

Siem Reap Pictures 1: Tonle Sap

Tonle Sap is the largest body of water in Cambodia. It is a lake that runs the lives of a significant portion of Cambodia's population - during high tides (in the wet season), the catch is bountiful, homes float and boats travel, the earth is lush and fishes leap. In the dry season, life becomes hot, dreary, without the waters to cool off, clean up or feed the hungry. But by travelling another hour ahead on bumpy roads that 4 months ago were flooded with lakewaters, we could hire boats to take us out to the remaining homes that were built far enough into the lake to still be "floating" even during the season of no-rains. It was here that we watched the sunset, day 1 in Siem Reap, in the floating village of Chong Kneas.


Sorting out Fuel


Fuel Kept Dry


Sunset over Tonle Sap


Sun over the Bow

Next: Siem Reap 2: Faith

Have a Beer on Me

So I'm in Beijing again - it's another work stint. Am going to check out the Great Wall for the first time... will post about that soon. I know my Siem Reap pictures are overdue - well it takes a long time to fix pictures on Photoshop :) Seriously I'm just running very short on time and I promise to post them soon.

It's been an eventful few weeks. I have finally found my emotional legs to write about my grandmother's passing, but them legs aren't strong enough for me to post that entry. One day I will. Not sure when - but one day. As an ironic parallel, there have been several passings that have affected people in my life. Parents and spouses of friends. Relatives. Causes ranging from peaceful old age, drawn-out tortuous terminal illnesses, and sudden freak accidents. So if you haven't hugged the ones you love today, and told them you love them, please do.

Oceans and prairies may separate us, but our hearts will speak to each other in whispers. -- Annonymous

It's also National Girlfriend and Sister's Week. So please also hug your girlfriend and/or sister, and remember this: I am only as strong as the coffee I drink, the hairspray I use and the friends I have.

Which brings me to my final bit on this post: the picture below came from my cousin who is now living in China, both she and her husband are teaching English and are having a grand adventure. Clearly the job gives her enough time to cultivate her sense of dry humour... here goes: